Ok here is the story,,,,,
imagine a river that flows in direction to the sea. But on the beach the flow finds a Dam of sand formed naturally by currents and waves of the sea. The water is trapped with no exit, forming a lagoon behind it, and sometimes even lakes. The water will rise and filter throughout the sand to the sea. If the flow is strong and the amount of water that flows in the lagoon is bigger than the water that can filter through the sand it will over flow, and break through, creating a river with strong currents that washes out the sand,,,,creating waves.
On the next few videos i found you can see how guys create this flow manually and the results of hours of surfing fun.
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