When a wave hits the shore its circular movement is stopped by the slowly uprising ground,,,which makes it rise and finally break,,,,making it loose most of its power,,,and then rolls out till it ends up on the coastline.
But in some places at the coast, the ground level is deep all the way to the shore and ends with a cliff, rock, wall, very steep beach etc,,,,where the wave, instead of breaking bounces of and travels back into sea. This is called "BACKWASH"
The point where the next incoming wave and the bounced off wave meet is where the surfers get the uprising push for their jumps.
To be at the right spot, they just surf one of the two waves, and when these two waves meet,,its "BIG AIR"
Not really safe, thinking that we are talking about huge forces very close to the shore,,,with mostly no safe exit point.
To be at the right spot, they just surf one of the two waves, and when these two waves meet,,its "BIG AIR"
Not really safe, thinking that we are talking about huge forces very close to the shore,,,with mostly no safe exit point.
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